Cove to Cove

Apologies for zero blog postings of late. Summer has been a hot one, full of surfing, cycling and generally being outside, but yesterday I did something of I was pretty stoked with and decided it would be a great time to get back in the saddle so to speak and do a blog post. So I’m sitting here, inside as it’s too hot in the garden and no swell at the beach, to write a few words. I hope you enjoy the little adventure I had recently that brought me right back to the idea of the Radius, which was always supposed to be about small adventures or exciting little projects within a chosen distance from home.

So, in the midst of a British heatwave riding a bicycle might not be the best way to spend a day. Maybe a day on the beach is what we are supposed to do, topping up the tan, lying there baking like Mad Dogs and Englishmen, waiting for 5pm when it’s acceptable to leave the heat and head home for some evening dinner, let the dog out and recap on how the day was spent, burning. If there are waves, I’m all for making day camp on the beach, as far from the masses as possible, dipping in and out of the ocean as my body heats up, and the need to cool down overwhelms me. There’s one issue, we’re going through a bit of a flat spell, surfing is not an option, the Atlantic has nothing to offer, so what to do?

​My plan was to ride my bike, in the midst of a British Heatwave, from Cove to Cove and swim at each spot, cooling down by dipping into the freshness, then ride on to the next spot and repeat. I had five locations in mind, the last being my home beach of Sennen. No wetsuit, just board shorts and a towel. My first stop was Lamorna Cove, and I arrived there at 8.30am, the water still high in the harbour. Riding down to this cove for a swim there was a sense of anticipation, ‘what will it be like?’ When I left Sennen I could feel a slight breeze that I had not really paid much attention to before leaving home.  I thought to myself that this could be a choppy swim, not the summer calm that I would like. As the harbour appeared from the narrow road I smiled out load, I gave a little ‘yeeeeewwww’ and could not get in the water fast enough. As perfection goes, this was 10/10. The water temperature was refreshing and cool. For the first swim of the day, the remainder of spots had a lot to match up to. Joined by a chap and his Dachshund who was equipped with his own Buoyancy vest, and then two walkers, I was glad I’d got in when I did. 

The trouble with swimming in Coves here in West Cornwall, they’re all the bottom of a bloody great hill, and so began climb number one, from Lamorna Cove up to the top of Castallack Farm and onto Reginnnis Hill above Mousehole. This narrow lane is a bit of an animal, a touch of the leg burner but well worth it. Dropping into Mousehole I could see that the strength of the wind and direction, but knew that my swim in the harbour would be protected from the elements, and it was, but it also confirmed that my next one, I might not be so lucky. Surrounded by the beauty of some old wooden sailing boats, the water was stunning. I swam for around 15 minutes, out in to the middle where I had a lovely chat with a local lady I’d met whilst recently working on the Methodist Chapel in the same village. 

One thing I promised myself on this little mini adventure was to treat myself to a fresh coffee, a cake, some Ice cream, and a pint and some fries when I’d completed the day. If you’re in Mousehole then the little deli ‘No.1’ is perfect. This has been my go to spot for a Pasty and cake since restorations began on the chapel in November. I Grabbed my coffee and cinnamon bun and went and sat on the bench by the harbour and watched the famous little fishing village come to life, the tourists appearing from the holiday cottages, the swimmers, the scaffolders stripping the poles from one of the Mouseholes many holiday lets and swimming in between a bit of Saturday morning work, and the tourists packing their cars ready to leave by 10am, to make way for the cleaners and the next intake. Saturday is changeover day and as I observed all the goings on I was conscious that I needed to crack on. 

Riding out of Mousehole there are three options, two bloody great hills, or along the coast to Penzance. I decided to head up a hill! I was heading to Pendeen, to Boat Cove on the opposite side of Portherris Beach. Heading from the South Coast to the North is a fair few miles and plenty of climbing.  As I rode, knowing the tide was dropping, I hoped I would arrive in time to swim in the rock pool below the Fisherman’s Mission. The climb out of Mousehole takes you up to Sheffield and from there over and along past the pet cemetery and my favourite surfboard factory Bos Surfboards, and then along to Drift, past the reservoir and up into Sancreed, down past the Old Dairy and then I went off road a bit up through Lower Botrea, and up over to the North Road. It’s a beautiful decent all the way down into Pendeen and on to the light house.  Joining the coast path here is a rocky and loose affair down to my destination and as I crashed last week on the cycle path gaining some tasty gravel rash, I took the decent cautiously.

Fully aware of the climb that would be needed to get back up from sea level, my anticipation was amping up, hoping this would be worth the effort. My first sight of the ocean found it to be pretty choppy. The North easterly was enough to whip up a little wind swell, and as I peered over to view the rock pool below, I was just in time to watch a wave surge and wash into the pool, stirring up the calmness. These pools are rock cut by miners back in the 1930’s for local communities to have a safe and sheltered swim spot. They’re tidal pools, deep and protected on a lower tide, hidden and unseen when it’s high, they're like the ultimate natural infinity pool. I watched to make sure I wouldn’t be swept out, or swirled around, being smashed against the granite, thus making the headlines for another stupid act of someone not understanding the ocean or bothering to find out about the local dangers. I’ve swam here before so I know the routine and after a few minutes I decided it was safe enough to get in. I changed, slid myself in and enjoyed a perfect ten minutes immersed in crystal clear water, with not a single person around and just the sound of the swell a few feet away. The Miners did an amazing job and many people I know are forever grateful.

The climb out of Boat Cove is pretty tough, the loose granite and gravel made for a couple of wheel spins, but it was not as bad as I’d first imagined going down.  When you get to the lighthouse it chills out a bit and the ride back to the coast road is a steady affair. My next stop was Priest Cove at Cape Cornwall, one of my favourite spots for a swim. If the tide is high (and calm seas) it’s pretty lovely swimming off the boat slip and natural harbour, but if the tide is out then I’ll always take a dip in the rock cut pool. I’ve had swims in here whilst a three to four foot swell is running down the point and I’ve just watched from the safety of this pool. The Brison Rocks just of Cape Cornwall, Sennen off to the South, the Heinz tower above and the fishing boats on the slip, this place is a favourite. However, climbing back to St Just out of the Cove is a tough one. You just need to get past the golf course which is only a few hundred yards up the hill, but it’s steep. Once the lane levels out, its plain sailing from there.  After a cooling ice cream, that I’d promised myself, I was ready to go, and onto my final swim at Sennen beach. 
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Arriving at Sennen I was just about ready for a swim, and a beer. I’m so used to swimming and surfing at Sennen, there is little I can say apart from, I live here for a reason. Such a beautiful beach, the water is always tropically clear and surprisingly warm after the past few days. After a cheeky couple of body surf waves from a bit of wind-swell, I was more than ready for a beer and a bowl of fries at Sennen Surf Lodge.  As I relaxed at the end of a perfect day I’d almost forgot I had one last climb. Out of Sennen you have two options; Cove Road or Stone Chair lane. I opted for the second and this is a beast. Maybe the toughest of the day. It’s not long but its steep, out of the saddle type of climb but it gets you half way up to the top of Cove Hill, away from traffic and buses, you can then cross over and get back on the national cycle path. 

When I got home, I’d ridden 35.7 miles with a moving time of 3 hours and 57mins. I’d climbed 3,375ft according to , and gained a couple of personal bests along the way, which was nice, but all I was interested in was the mileage and the climbing. It’s a tough ride down here In West Cornwall. Someone said to me once  that whatever you clock up in mileage counts for double that! 

My day was an epic one. I’d set a challenge and completed it with a huge smile on my face.  I’ve already realised I’d missed a couple of classic spots, but that would mean more climbing, and more time. For now I was stoked to have completed a great day out on the bike. I wasn’t hot, in fact thanks to my favourite summer riding shirt, plenty of water, a couple of flapjacks and a pace that meant I could look over the hedges most of the day,  and taking in the beauty of a summers day, and whilst the tourists grappled with car parks a beach space, I managed to find my space out on my bike. The swimming was sublime, the tides were perfect for each spot, the people I met along the way super interesting and my bike, well thats always the perfect partner. The beer was like liquid gold and the cold shower I had at home was a welcome rush of coolness.

Note: Riding a bike here in West Cornwall means you can avoid the main highways, crisscrossing through the back lanes and bridleways and that makes it safer than other places I’ve ridden. However, there are still some idiots who drive too fast and I had a couple of close calls. My advice to riding around here; on any bend please hug the hedge, don’t go drift around the corners in the middle of the lane. Of the few cars I came in contact with on this route, that were driving too fast, I believe were tourists, the local residents know better.